North Island Guide // Planning a Road Trip in New Zealand
north island guide
Make the most out of your time on the North Island. Advice for anyone who is looking to visit a few places or tackle the entire island on a classic kiwi road trip.
I spent six years living on New Zealand’s North Island. Based out of the capital, my husband and I covered as much as the North Island that our jobs (and bank accounts) allowed.
I love the North Island and I miss it dearly. When people ask for travel advice, they often ask which island to spend their time on typically because they are limited. I’ve written more than a dozen long emails, sharing favourite spots, must-see places and the differences between the two islands. It’s about time I simplified my life and yours by sharing this North Island travel guide, listed as if you are going on a clockwise tour of the island starting and ending in Auckland.
This guide isn’t just for road-trippers. If you’re looking for advice on certain places, I’ll be sharing heaps of details throughout the blog including hiking spots, where to eat, stay and photos to inspire you :)
Reach out if you have any questions, I’m always happy to share more about my home, Aotearoa.
🚗
Rough North Island loop road trip route:
Auckland to Coromandel to Mount Maunganui to Rotorua to Taupo to Tongariro National Park to Wellington to Egmont National Park to Raglan and back to Auckland
Let’s start in auckland
(Almost) everyone enters New Zealand via Auckland. The country’s most populous city at 1.6M residents spread across a mix of neighborhoods growing up and down the coast. It’s a great starting place for any NZ adventure and will be the starting and ending point for this (road trip) guide especially if you are hiring a car or campervan. I’m not going to go into much detail about Auckland, it’s a place I haven’t spent too much time in, but still love visiting.
Piha Beach
Don’t miss:
Go for a stroll, shop or grab a bite to eat around the Viaduct Harbour/CBD area
Hike up Mount Eden to watch the sunset over the city.
Enjoy a picnic in Albert Park.
Head to the northern beaches like Takapuna for a swim.
Mini trips from Auckland
Waiheke Island - wine lovers paradise (day trip via ferry or stay on the island)
Piha Beach - stunning drive through the Waitakere Ranges to this stunning black sand beach
Whangārei - two hours north, stop by Waipu Caves for glow worms, find waterfalls and beautiful coastlines.
Stay
Choosing where to sleep in Auckland is all dependent on your plans. If you have a car, I don’t suggest staying in the CBD area, but choose a suburb like Ponsonby, great for foodies, Mount Eden, ‘burb vibes with more green space, or Parnell/Newmarket for a more upscale, trendy experience. We’ve stayed in cheap hotels off K-Road, perfect if you like walking across the city and want to experience the nightlife. You’ll find a mix of hostels and high-end hotels in the CBD so it’s worth checking out both Airbnb and Booking.com to find the right place for you. If you need an airport hotel, there are a few average ones nearby with free shuttles to the terminals (we stayed at Heartland Hotel and they let us check out super late as we arrived at 2:30am which was very appreciated).
Heading east to
Coromandel & The mount
Cathedral Cove
New Chums Beach
Once you’re ready to leave the Big Smoke, head east to the Coromandel Peninsula, a holiday destination region for both kiwis and tourists. Stay in Hahei (great camping and airbnb options), bring a spade (shovel) and dig your own hot pool at Hot Water Beach. Walk to Cathedral Cove for sunrise if you want a chance at having it to yourself others join the others and pack a picnic for a day at one of NZ’s most beautiful beaches.
If you’re a big fan of beaches, keep heading north to Whangapoua to visit what was once named one of the top 10 beaches in the world. New Chums Beach is only accessible at low tide (unless you’re ok with a swim) and has a stunning viewpoint of this perfectly curved hidden paradise beach.
Head inland to explore Coromandel Forest Park and hike the famous Pinnacles Walk/Kauaeranga Kauri Trail (we still haven’t done this). You can stay at the hut for a night or plan for a big hiking day.
The Mount viewpoint
When you’re ready head south to Mount Manganui. This sleepy surf town makes every day feel like a holiday. Get in the water, wander through the downtown and make sure to hike up the mount for the best view of the area (highly recommended for sunrise or sunset). You can even camp right at the bottom of this sacred volcano next to the waves for the full experience.
For more details on the Bay of Plenty and Coromandel region check out our road trip from a few years back.
Stay
Hahei is a great place to spend the night in the Coromandel. Park up your campervan (or car/tent) and sleep listening to the waves at Hahei Beach Resort. Just near Hot Water Beach is a Top 10 Holiday Park (chain holiday park across NZ) which offers a mix of accomm. In the Mount, stay right near the summit trail at Beachside Holiday Park or book one of the many idyllic holiday homes/apartments scattered in the area.
Heading south to
Rotorua
Whakarewarewa Forest
If Queenstown is the South Island’s adventure capital, Rotorua is the North’s. This lakeside town is just an hour inland from the Mount and it is teeming with extreme sports tours, cultural experiences, and of course what it’s known for, crazy cool geothermal activity. Yes, this does make Rotorua a bit stinky, a bit like rotting eggs, but don’t let that turn you away. A few years back we got to work with Rotorua’s Tourism Board, checking out their top instagramable spots.
Here are my must-sees/dos for your stop in Rotorua on your North Island tour, split into free and paid activities.
Free
Kuirau Park: This is not your average city park. Located smack dab in the middle of the city, Kuirau Park is bubbling away with volcanic steam creating crazy cool photo ops along wooden boardwalks.
Insider tip: Visit during golden hour to catch the light penetrating through the steam.
Whakarewarewa Forest: Also known as the Redwood Forest, this expansive woodland towering with California Redwoods offers numerous walking trails, perfect to explore on a hot day.
Lake Okareka boardwalk: One of the many lakes in the area and only a short drive from town, this walk through the wetlands is easy for all ages and ideal for any bird lover.
Kerosene Creek: Go for a dip in this natural hot spring, located outside of town, with its only thermal waterfall.
Kuirau Park
$$$
Redwoods Treewalk & Nightlights: A chance to explore amongst the treetops in this elevated experience of skinny wooden bridges leading to higher heights. At night the forest glows as lanterns lead the way. Super fun for kids and adults.
Māori cultural experience: Learn, interact, dine and more with one of the guided tours offered in Rotorua. See all options.
Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland: If you are going to do any paid activity, this should be it. You’ll feel as if you’ve stumbled upon another world as you walk through countless geothermal activity hotspots and find electric reds, greens and oranges.
Polynesian Spa: Geothermal activity center = endless natural hot springs and pools options. Book your own private thermal spa with a lake view at this spa.
Secret Spot Hot Tubs and Hell’s Gate Mud Spa are also worth looking into!
Stay
When we were hosted by Rotorua Tourist Board, we stayed in the heart of downtown at Aura Accommodation, a great mid-range option with full kitchens, an outdoor pool and hot pools. If you’d like to get away from town, sleep at Blue Lake Top 10 holiday park situated across from the water. You’ll find numerous camping options as well as a wide variety of budget-friendly hostels, motels and hotels.
heading southwest to
Tongariro National Park
*on your way to Tongariro National Park, stop in Taupō, a holiday lake resort town. Book a boat tour, try your shot at a floating hole-in-one, or simply stroll around town. Heaps of accomm is available here in case you cannot find any in Tongariro National Park.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Home of one of the best day hikes in the world, Tongariro National Park is a MUST, even if you don’t want to hike.
But if you do, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of the most intriguing hikes, I’ve ever done and I’ve done it over 7 times. I never get bored of it. The big issue here is the floods of people who do it every day.
New parking restrictions have made it difficult to park and complete it without relying on paid drop-off and pick-off companies. This also doesn’t help the hoards of people accessing the trail.
We typically, park in the main lot and start the trail hours before dawn, aiming to reach the Red Crater for sunrise, the famous viewpoint overlooking the emerald lakes. It’s your best chance to have it alone or with only a few other people. We then return back to the starting point and to our car. It requires starting in the dark at very cold temperatures so I’m only recommending this if you are an experienced hiker. You’ll pass hordes of people walking the crossing and will most likely have to stop often to share the steep staircases.
*This is a long, grueling 6-9 hour hike in alpine conditions. Meaning the weather can change in an instant. Preparing and packing enough food, water and layers are necessary. More on the hike and our story here.
Surrounded by desert, Tongariro National Park is a treat in the middle of the North Island for mountain lovers and it has multiple skiing options for winter fans as well. Go if you love wild landscapes, if not then maybe just drive straight through.
For those looking for easy walks, I suggest:
Taranaki Falls: 6km loop ~ 2 hours, easy mostly flat trail to a beautiful, cascading waterfall with clear views of the mountains. Access the track in Whakapapa Village (see below).
Tawhai Falls: Also known as Gollums Pool where LOTR was filmed. It’s a short 15min track to a stunning waterfall. Pack a picnic and dip your toes in the cold refreshing water.
Mangawhero Falls Walk: located in the southern region of the National Park near Ohakune, this short walk takes you to a stunning waterfall.
For those looking for more challenging hikes, try:
Tama Lakes Walk, a 17.6km hike (5-6 hours) on a one-way track that gives stunning views of Mount Ngauruhoe, Mount Ruapehu and the vast national park (see photo below)
Tongariro Northern Circuit, a 45km loop trek taking 3 to 4 days trek that includes the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
Ohakune Old Coach Road, 15km (4 to 5 hours) heritage trail showcasing old rail lines, cobbled roads and more (possible to cycle this trail)!
Start of Taranaki Falls/Tama Lakes Track
Viewpoint from the upper Tama Lake
Towns in the National Park
Whakapapa Village: Small little ski village with accomm options including a holiday park & campgrounds (pre-book!!). The village has a great DOC centre on the national park, a few food options, heaps of trail heads, and an old Chateau that gives Wes Anderson vibes.
The small town of National Park is New Zealand’s highest town at 825m. Twenty minutes from the start of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, it’s a great place to fuel up beforehand offering a petrol station/food shop, cafe, pub, great playground and a handful of holiday homes.
Ohakune: a ski resort town south of the National Park, great to stop by on your way out. It has a funny vego playground, accom options and plenty of food choices including our fav EAT.
Stay
Skohotel is a great affordable accom option right on the doorstep of the trails in Whakapapa Village
Camp at Mangahuia Campsite a shady DOC campground with a covered cooking station and long drop toilets (used to be first come, first serve, but now bookings are required).
National Park has a few options, we love the cheap private rooms at the YHA which has a sweet indoor climbing gym and a big shared kitchen.
Ohakune is home to two big holiday parks as well as backpackers, cottages, ski cabins and more. Check both booking and Airbnb to compare and if you’re there in winter make sure to find one with a spa!
After Tongariro National Park, you have a few options…
You could take the Forgotten Highway, a three-hour scenic drive through dense forests and visit Whangamōmona, an unique settlement that is its own republic on your way to Egmont National Park/New Plymouth.
You could take the regular highway to Egmont National Park/New Plymouth.
or you could head to Wellington, the country’s capital city (and my own for six years) and my choice of where you should go next.
Heading south to
Wellington
The capital of Aotearoa is located at the absolute bottom of the North Island. This harborside city was home for six years. I love this city, its people, its food, its wild, raw ocean access points and although it may be out of your way, I promise it’s worth the visit.
We first moved here in 2015, it was classic windy welly spring weather and I was underprepared. Who knew a girl from The Windy City would be completely oblivious to moving to the windiest city in the world? “Don’t even bother with umbrellas, the Wellington winds can reach more than 75km/hr in springtime,” a note left on our hostel’s front door. But once I got past the weather and I truly saw the city, I fell in love and you will to with my help.
do
Walk along the waterfront which curves around the city starting from the train station all the way to the airport.
Hike up to Mount Victoria for a 360 view of Wellington and its bays.
Wander around Te Papa, an impressive FREE museum of six floors and intriguing exhibits.
Visit the Harbourside Market held every Sunday morning for produce, fresh bread, food trucks, music, coffee and more.
Hike. Yes, it seems weird in a capital city, but the entire city is surrounded by a town belt that connects via neighborhoods. Take the Southern Walkway to the other side of the city where you can catch views of the South Island. Red Rocks Walkway and the Tip Track are incredible options or drive out to Makara Beach and take the track up to get this coastal viewpoint (photo below).
Have a sunset picnic at Point Dorset, one of our fav family spots.
Swim near the city at Oriental Bay or drive along the ocean and spend the day at Scorching Bay beach.
Check out some live music, San Fran, Meow and Rogue & Vagabond always have gigs on.
Makara Beach track
eat & drink
This is the best city for beer too, I highly recommend visiting Parrotdog Brewery out in Lyall Bay (cool little surf neighborhood). It’s only minutes from the airport making it a perfect stop when you’re flying in/out. Don’t miss Garage Project’s 91 Aro Street taproom and go for a few at LBQ (Little Beer Quarter), the best beer selection in town.
For food wander up Cuba Street, check out the Friday Night Markets (off Cuba) for a food truck frenzie, head to Newtown and try trendy spots like Bebemos, Aunty Social Lounge and Black Coffee. Go thrifting at the opp shops, flip through records at Flying Nun and grab a kebab at Cafe Laz.
If seafood is what you’re after, book in at Ortega Fish Shack, Welly’s #1 restaurant or try one of many seafood spots lining the harbor. Another option is to stroll along the waterfront and check out what food trucks are hanging about.
Castlepoint
Trips near wellington
When Ry and I first arrived to the city, we took every bus and train as far as it went, hiking any trail in the region. Once we bought our first car, a converted camper minivan named Ronda, we explored further.
Hike and stay a night at Powell Hut in the Tararuas.
Drive out to Castlepoint, a place that feels like the end of the earth.
Go wine tasting in Martinborough and stay on a vineyard or the Top 10 near the illydic downtown.
Drive out to the Putangirua Pinnacles, a LOTR location that even those who have never seen the movies would enjoy. It’s also near the picturesque Cape Palliser lighthouse.
stay
Camping
Since I was a Wellingtonian for six years, I rarely experienced accomm options, but I can recommend a few good spots. My favorite self-contained camping spot is at Red Rocks trailhead. Sleep next to the crashing waves and black sand beach and if you’re lucky enjoy a clear view of the Kaikoura Range on the South Island. Evans Bay Marina is another freedom camping spot (self-contained vehicles only), easy to bus into the city from there or enjoy a long walk along the sea. If you want to stay in the heart of downtown, campervan parking is available next to the harbour and available off Cuba Street. Find a Top 10 in Petone across the harbour (20min drive to city), or head out of town to the region’s best nature spots, sleeping at Catchpool Valley (45mins), Putangirua Pinnacles (2hrs) or Castlepoint (2.5hrs).
hostels, hotels & more
After living in a 6-bed dorm with 5 guys for three weeks, I was done with hostel life in this city, but Wellington actually has two that I’d highly recommend for newcomers to the city. Under the same owners, both Dwellington (in Thorndon neighborhood — offers daily free breakfast) and The Marion (downtown/Te Aro) are cool, modern hostels offering a mix of rooms and long-term stays. If you are looking for a trendy, urban escape in the heart of Cuba Street, you must book in at The Intrepid Hotel and grab a glass of natural wine at Puffin, their on-site bar that transports you back to the time of prohibition.
Airbnbs are plentiful and scattered throughout the Welly neighborhoods. The classic chain hotels are centrally located and the more expensive option. If you want to immerse in nature, take an outdoor (and indoor) bath, but only be 15 mins from the city, stay at the Boho Bach. We stayed for a night on a job and LOVED IT.
*if you need more Welly tips, reach out!
Heading northwest to
taranaki
After Tongariro National Park, I urge you to continue west to the coast and to the North Island’s second-tallest mountain, Mount Taranaki.
On a clear day, you can see this perfectly cone volcano from Tongariro National Park. As you get closer, you experience it’s beauty and power. It’s our Mt. Fuji of New Zealand and its national park is one of my favourites. A dense, ancient rainforest surrounds the maunga (mountain in Māori) and it truly feels enchanting.
You can access the park from four different locations. I highly recommend hiking even just a little to take in this remarkable mountain.
*please note: this solo-standing volcano makes its own weather so always triple-check forecasts and be prepared for any and all changes, it’s crazy how fast it can change on this mountain and can be dangerous on certain trails.
dawson falls entrance
Head to Dawson Falls visitor centre where you’ll find heaps of info and the trailhead to a few different walks. Visit the waterfalls and up to Wilkies Pools for a close-up of Taranaki. For those looking for a more extreme hike, head to Fantham’s Peak (can stay at the small hut) which puts you directly next to the mountain (see photo above). Do note that this hike involves scree and can be very dangerous in winter really any day the weather changes.
view of Taranaki from Fantham’s Peak
Pouakai Tarns
North Egmont entrance
The trail to the famous reflection shot aka Pouakai Tarns. These tiny little pools of water (tarns) have become famous in the photography world so much so that a boardwalk was made to protect the natural habitat while visitors flood the scene hoping to capture a perfect mountain reflection. It’s a great hike up, I’d say medium difficulty as many stairs lead up via the mesmerising forest and up to the exposed saddle. There is also a serviced hut (book prior) if you want to catch both a sunset and sunrise. It’s a testy place and the weather is always a gamble.
Park at the Mangorei Track Trailhead and hike up 5km to the tarns taking anywhere from 90mins to 2.5 hours depending on your speed. Check out the Pouakai Circuit if you’re looking for a 2 to 3 day tramp.
love a mountain road photo? here are New Zealand’s most scenic roads
Stratford entrance
This entrance is my favourite because it includes one of our favourite road shots of Mt. Taranaki (see above) and if you continue to the end you’ll find yourself at the Stratford parking lot which sits high above sea level (oh yea have I mentioned this mountain is next to the ocean?).
It’s a great place to start the summit of Taranaki, or at least we think so.
For an easy stroll, check out Stratford Plateau Lookout for a sweeping view of the entire region.
To experience the goblin forest, do the Kamahi Loop Track (30min return).
New Year’s Day 2020 family summit
Mount Taranaki Summit
read how we summited Taranaki on New Year’s Day with our toddler
stay in
Stratford: don’t let this small, outdated town fool you, it has a great affordable holiday park with a pool (see here), two supermarkets, a delicious Indian restaurant and is just a short drive away from the park entrance.
New Plymouth: Is the biggest town near Taranaki and stretches along the sea. Check out the coastal walkway for some fresh air. The downtown offers plenty of good eats, bars, cafes and shops. Find a mix of accom options including hostels and holiday parks, and if you’re a beer fan, head to Shining Peak Brewery and grab a za from Miss White’s.
*If you have time, drive north of the city to check out the Three Sisters rock formations on the coast, but make sure to check tidal charts beforehand.
heading north to
Raglan
If you have time, stop in Hamilton to see the incredible (and FREE) Hamilton Gardens where you can feel like Alice in Wonderland, teleport to Japan, wander through the Italian Renaissance period and more. This region (Waikato) is also known for its glow worm caves, rafting, canyoning and spelunking.
Ngarunui Beach
Exploring around Raglan
Head along the coast to the black sand Ngarunui Beach, a popular surf beach alongside dramatic cliffs absolutely stunning at golden hour/sunset time. Keep heading south to hike up Te Toto Gorge Lookout and see a sweeping view of the area. Wairēinga aka Bridal Veil Falls is a 15 minute drive south of town and I highly recommend you visit (wheelchair and buggy accessible)!
stay at
@Solscape is perfect for chilled-out travelers who are looking for a destination hostel with gorgeous ocean views and lush gardens. They offer earth domes, glamping bell tents, 12 authentic train cabooses and campervan parks. Their onsite vegan kitchen is unfortunately closed at the moment, check their socials or site for updates.
Find three campsites within walking distance from the little downtown, Te Kopua Whanau Camp, Te Kopua Beach and Raglan Holiday Park, the latter having showers and cooking spaces on-site. We stayed at a cute, affordable AirBnB just a 10min walk to town.
heading north to
Auckland
We’ve gone full loop! Now I obviously haven’t covered the entire North Island so scroll below if you want to see and do more.
Otherwise, I hope this guide has helped you decide how you’ll spend your time on New Zealand’s North Island. Feel free to share with friends, let me know your fav places in the comment section and reach out if you have questions.
Happy traveling!
Aroha,
Viktoria
other spots to consider
Northland (the region above Auckland) is definitely worth checking out for waterfalls, beaches and the history of Aotearoa. Drive to the tippy top to Cape Reinga (fair warning, it’s a big drive), take a boat tour around the Poor Knights Islands (snorkel or dive if you can), ferry over to Kororareka/Russell, and check out the FREE glowworm caves in Waipu.
Gisborne, we haven’t been here, but it’s known for its beaches and epic rock waterslide.
Hawke’s Bay/Napier region is pretty, with rolling hills along a stunning coastline. Go for the vineyards, Napier’s Art Deco and nearby waterfalls (Shine Falls).
Tararua Forest Park is just 90mins outside Wellington. For a big hike, head up to Mount Holdsworth and stay overnight in the newly renovated hut.